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Mar
11
Happy
When Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson strode down the catwalk at the end of the Valentino autumn/winter 2015 show, there was a collective gasp – even as the audience whooped and swooped on the two film stars with iPhones. Or perhaps it was just me, in my head.

Why were they here? Why should we care?

It was to advertise a forthcoming sequel to their fashion farce Zoolander, apparently. Pierpaolo Piccioli, who designs the Valentino line with Maria Grazia Chiuri, said it proved they weren’t so serious. Quite. Yet it felt entirely out of place on the penultimate day of the Paris collections, particularly at a house known for its rare refinement, a quiet moment amid the circus.


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A multitude of blurry snaps of Messrs Stiller and Wilson rapidly pushed images of Valentino’s exquisitely crafted clothes out of my Twitter feed. In our digital age, that seemed to symbolise them being bumped out of many people’s minds, too. Will this collection be remembered for its artful collaboration with Celia Birtwell, its gossamer evening dresses, or even its dodgier Heffalump jumpers and gowns printed with Chinese dragons? Or will it be remembered as Valentino’s Zoolander moment? I know where I’d put my money.

It reminded me of when Robert Altman filmed his own ill-fated fashion send-up, Pr�t-�-porter, during the Paris collections 21 years ago. A few designers collaborated, stiffly parodying themselves and the industry. Karl Lagerfeld refused – maybe because Chanel, and its fashion, is bigger than Hollywood. Or maybe he just didn’t want to play second fiddle. No one puts Kaiser Karl in a corner.

As usual, this season Lagerfeld played it to the cheap seats at the back, kitting out his venue as a picture-perfect recreation of a French brasserie, and sending his models out as its gussied-up denizens.

Lagerfeld loves those kind of mise-en-sc�nes: sometimes, like Valentino’s Zoolandering, they miss, overshadowing the clothes, bogging the whole thing down in set dressing and gag-laden ensembles. This time, like fine French cooking, there was a lightness. Nothing sat heavy on the stomach, nothing stuck in your gullet. You left this show feeling sated, your mind fed with fresh produce.


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The visual language of those eating establishments – bentwood chairs, marble-topped tables, lots of brass and mirror – have become visual shorthand. More often than not it’s all ersatz, but our minds read it as quintessentially Parisian. That’s true of Chanel, too, whose clothes are clich�d – in the best possible way. For winter Lagerfeld coupled the stereotypical Chanel tweeds, chains and pearls with caf� society puns, embroidery like iron latticework, lean aprons wrapped over trousers, a couple of Raggedy Ann skirts made of tiers of embroidered napkins winding around the brasserie tables.

The postmodern fashion ideal is of designer as DJ, artfully tinkering with archetypal aesthetic elements and mixing them together, constantly, into new iterations. It’s an approach that genuinely originated with Lagerfeld, and he’s still the designer who does it best.

It’s a challenge that Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen is grappling with – especially as, despite its founder’s death, the label’s legacy is alive, well, and awe-inspiring. Savage Beauty is about to open at the V&A, coinciding (as does this show) with the fifth anniversary of Lee McQueen’s death.

Beauty is always Burton’s focus, rather than savagery – the beauty of technique, frequently, and often the fragile beauty of nature. This season Burton was inspired by roses – but unlike McQueen, hers have no thorns. That, indeed, is what Burton has brought to the label. Her McQueen has soul, but without darkness.
Mar
9
Happy
With the weather in the city blowing hot and cold every day, summer dressing becomes a tricky rope to walk on. Use smart layering to look fashionable yet keep calm and cool in this unpredictable season

Cotton sari wrap

Natural fabrics like cotton, linen and khadi are the best choices for summer wear. So, stick to these fabrics for your saris as well.

Layering tip: A sleeveless white blouse with a Chinese collar will keep away the heat yet look elegant. Wrap a stole around your sari as a cummerbund. Make sure it\'s in the same colour scheme.

Daytime dress-up

A brunch with the girls or a day out with kids — both occasions call for feminine yet comfort dressing.


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Layering tip: Pick a loose geometric print dress and throw on a buttonless coat in the same colour scheme with an Oriental or nature-inspired print. For a formal look, use the same idea but avoid prints and loud colours.

Belted lass

Creative layering isn\'t only about mix and match. It also gives you scope to play with fabrics and unusual ways of dressing.

Layering tip: Ask your darzi to tailor a formal blazer-inspired blouse in an Indian textile. Team it with a sheer skirt. Add a twist by wrapping a cotton dupatta around your waist as a belt.

Dhoti fusion

Desi silhouettes like dhotis and shararas look unique when teamed with western pieces.

Layering tip: Team an embellished dhoti with a stole and ethnic jacket. Give it a twist by wearing the jacket over

the stole. Keep the shoes heeled. A pair of peep-toe pumps will enhance the surprise fusion effect.

Boho rising

For girls not shy of colour, summer is the time to bare a kaleidoscopic mix and bring out your bohemian side.

Layering tip: Use a multi-coloured crop jacket as a crop top with your printed culottes. Throw on a gauzy long jacket for chilly evenings and tie a bandana for an attitude that screams chilled out yet sophisticated\'.

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Mar
5
Happy
Saville Row bespoke tailor Lee Marsh has created his first-ever ready-to-wear menswear collection in collaboration with the British textile mill Hainsworth.

The capsule range has been crafted using the cloth maker’s light grey Melange Lightweight Melton, bright blue Melton and Ren Field grey fabrics.

Expressing his joy over the new associative design venture with the Yorkshire firm, the designer said, “I fell in love with Hainsworth’s fabrics when I was working for Gieves and Hawkes so I’m delighted to be collaborating with them myself for the first time. Their heritage and history closely matches the history of a Saville Row suit.”


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The mill’s MD Tom Hainsworth also spoke about the collaboration in a press statement, “We met Lee at the London Textile Forum in October and he made quite an impression as he was wearing a bright blue jacket which was very similar to our bright blue Melton fabric. He is a great match for us with his fantastic training and experience as a tailor and Saville Row pedigree now behind his own label and collection.”

Slated to be launched in stores and online from September 2015 onwards, the collection includes mix-and-match pieces like a blue blazer, a green bomber jacket and a grey suit.

“Until now I’d only ever used their grey Melange Melton as an under-collar suit fabric but I had this great idea to use it to make a whole suit. It’s such a soft and moveable fabric that it’s perfect used this way. It’s also a warm fabric so it’s just right for winter wear,” the designer talked about the fabrics he used in the suit.

“I’ve designed the collection so you can wear the suit trousers with the striking blue blazer and a pair of trainers if you want to. The green bomber jacket combines the classic tailoring of a double breasted jacket with a traditional bomber. Hainsworth’s Ren Field grey fabric from their True Heritage Collection is such a lovely fabric to work with and allowed me to give the bomber the soft yet structured look I was after,” he further adds about the versatility of the materials.

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Mar
3
Happy
Bettina Graziani, one of the world’s first supermodels, who in her midcentury heyday was known as “the most photographed woman in France,” died on Monday in Paris. She was 89.

Associates of hers confirmed her death, Agence France-Presse reported.

Known professionally by the single name Bettina, Ms. Graziani was ubiquitous on runways and in magazines in the 1940s and ’50s. During those years, as Vogue magazine wrote in 2009, “she ruled as the undisputed queen of the Parisian couture,” helping to bring the work of Europe’s foremost designers, including Chanel, Valentino, Givenchy, Jacques Fath and Lucien Lelong, to consumers around the globe.

With her lithe figure, close-cropped russet hair and alluring, enigmatic expression, Ms. Graziani quickly became an avatar of fashion’s New Look, the postwar style built around full skirts, cinched waists and elegant silhouettes. She was photographed by luminaries in the field, among them Gordon Parks, Robert Capa, Irving Penn and Henri Cartier-Bresson.


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After retiring from modeling in the mid-1950s at the behest of her lover, the international playboy Aly Khan, Ms. Graziani was a fixture of Paris society. In later years, she worked as a fashion publicist.

The daughter of a railway man, Ms. Graziani was born Simone Michelene Bodin in Normandy in 1925. In 1944, after Paris was liberated from Nazi occupation, she moved there, sketches in hand, to seek work as a fashion designer. The designer Jacques Costet took her on as a model instead.

Soon afterward, she began a professional association with Fath, who renamed her Bettina: He already had a model named Simone working for him. To Fath, Ms. Graziani became a muse, working closely with him until his death in 1954.

Ms. Graziani was also associated with the fledgling house of Givenchy, which had been founded in Paris in 1952 by Hubert de Givenchy, one of Fath’s former assistants. Givenchy named his hugely popular Bettina blouse, known for the tiers of ruffles down its sleeves, in her honor.

By the time she retired, Ms. Graziani was commanding modeling fees of about $1,300 an hour, or more than $11,000 an hour today.

After an early marriage to the photographer and journalist Gilbert Graziani ended in divorce, Ms. Graziani was romantically involved with the American screenwriter Peter Viertel, whose credits include “The Sun Also Rises.” She left him for Aly Khan, who had been married to the actress Rita Hayworth.

In 1960, while driving with Aly Khan outside Paris, Ms. Graziani was slightly injured in a car crash that took his life. Pregnant with their child, she miscarried shortly afterward.

Ms. Graziani was later associated with the designers Emanuel Ungaro, for whom she was a publicist, and Azzedine Ala�a, for whom she served as a muse well into old age. Last year, the Azzedine Ala�a Gallery in Paris held an exhibition of photographs from Ms. Graziani’s career.

Information on her survivors was not available. She was named a commander of the Order of Arts and Letters by the French government in 2010.

Reflecting on her career in a 2009 interview with Vogue, Ms. Graziani tried to put her finger on that je ne sais quoi that had made her the model she was.

“I think, in retrospect, I had a different style,” she said. “Because I can’t say I was the most beautiful. It’s not a question of beauty. You have to have a personality.”

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Mar
2
Happy
The most ubiquitous, and worst, trend in fashion these days may not be a silhouette, or a shade, but a strategy: the acceptance of ambiguity and gossip around a creative transition.

It happened last October at Nina Ricci with Peter Copping, whose spring show was widely rumored, but not confirmed, to be his last; it happened more recently in January, at Gucci with Alessandro Michele, whose men’s wear show was widely rumored, but not confirmed, to be his first as creative director; and it happened on Saturday at Emilio Pucci with Peter Dundas, who is widely rumored, but not admitted, to be leaving the brand.

“We cannot officially confirm or deny” is the party line, according to Pierre-Yves Roussel, the chief executive of the LVMH fashion group, which includes Pucci. Yet the invitation to the show — a giant poster-size piece of paper — included the words (for the first time since Mr. Dundas’s debut show for the brand in 2009) “in gratitude to Peter Dundas.” Mr. Dundas himself thanked Marchesa Cristina Pucci di Barsento (a.k.a. Mrs. Emilio Pucci) in his show notes for being an “inspiration”; and at the end of the show, the entire creative team appeared on the runway to applaud Mr. Dundas and, in turn, be applauded by him.


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Heavier hints could not have been dropped, especially later, when while explaining the collection and its gold zodiac embroidery on black velvet sheaths and blazers, Mr. Dundas said: “It’s about the forces larger than us that determine our destiny.”

Asked if he was leaving, he said, (with his press representative hovering nearby), “I’m not supposed to talk about that.”

It’s too bad, because it makes the story about whether a change at the top is actually a story, instead of what it should be about, which is the clothes themselves: an energy-infused tour through Mr. Dundas’s Pucci oeuvre in 61 looks, from black and white Op Art sequined minidresses to sporty striped knits with leather sailor shorts, slick tuxedos and wide trousers, fringed leathers and peekaboo embroidered lace.

The finale parade of seven ankle-length sinuous dresses in swirling zodiac-meets-Pucci prints underscored the fact that not only did Mr. Dundas know what he was doing, but he also did it very well.

Whatever the reason for the current fuzziness — whether it is, as someone close to the brand said, legal, or whether it is retail (they don’t want store buyers to think it’s not worth investing in the collection because it’s about to change) or whether it’s both of the above, plus disagreement over direction — the fact is, once leaks and rumors begin, they are better put to rest instead of being allowed to fester and obscure. They are not good for a brand’s image nor for the people involved or the consumers, who may not understand what is going on with the clothes they see.

In 2004 Tom Ford took his last bow at Gucci under a rain of rose petals to a standing ovation. In 2012, Raf Simons likewise received an emotional send-off after his final Jil Sander collection. Both provided a fitting end to one era and an acknowledgement of the next. They made the shows (and the clothes within) more valuable, not less, because they were a part of history.

It is worth remembering.

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Feb
25
Happy
It takes a lot more guts to have no hair and still stand proud, than to carry off some new trendy hairstyle.

TRENDS for Spring/Summer 2015 is all about going nude. On the face, that is.

That’s a pretty brave look to carry, even if it’s with the paradoxical help of lots of make-up, and one which I’m not too comfortable with.

When you’re no longer in the throes of youthful bliss, the skin shows every unforgiving line. It takes a skilful hand to be able to mask the mark of time without coming off looking as if you’ve tried on the entire year’s cosmetic quota at one go, much less look “bare-faced”.

Hair, on the other hand, gives more leeway. Apparently coming in undone is “in” right now and the thrown-in, looped-under ponytail is considered tres chic.


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And you know how on days you look like you just ran your fingers through your hair because you had no time to brush it? Well, that works too, especially when Michael Kors does it for the runway, with plenty of wisps floating, looking extra loose and lived-in. Hairstylist Orlando Pita intended the hair to look dishevelled in a sensual way, it seems.

Long hair is back in fashion and retro half-up hairstyles at Veronica Beard are designed to look amateurish, “as if they’d (the girls) done their hair themselves before a fun night out,” says lead stylist Rutger. Tousled tresses were also spotted on the runways of Emilio Pucci, Valentino and Narciso Rodriguez.

And the colour of the season? Go Bronde! Yeah, you heard Beyonce – that’s what you get when you mix brown with blonde so brunettes can look forward to a bright year ahead.

That’s all well and good, that is if you have a healthy, hearty head of hair to play with. The reality is, most women (and some men) face daily battles with their locks.

Some may have hair that’s too dead straight and must get a perm to give it some body; conversely, others go through rebonding, or the gentler relaxing of their waves to better tame their curls.

I’m guilty as charged of trying to dispose of my curls. While other women would look on in envy as they spend big bucks trying to get their hair to behave like mine, I longed for the straight and narrow.

In recent years, I finally plucked up the courage to relax my hair. But in doing so, even if it’s just once in six months, no matter how gentle the chemicals were touted to be, they still wreaked havoc on my hair. During a recent visit, the hairstylist promptly announced that my hair was “damaged”.

In no way am I special as there are tons of other people out there who struggle with greasy, frizzy, brittle or untameable hair. And while the host of products we use may alleviate those problems, they can have a lasting effect on our scalp and hair, and even our health. (Find out more about our upcoming no-shampoo challenge on Star2’s p4.)

In saying so, I confess I’m quite taken up by L’Oreal Professionnel’s latest Pro-Keratin Refill which is said to fill in damaged parts with hair identical keratin and protect the hair fibre from further aggression. As a cynic who has tried so many different products, I’m impressed that it has given my hair some semblance of decency and it doesn’t look like stiff broom bristles anymore.

Which is probably the least of my worries, given how a couple of bald spots post-surgery have been the bane of my life. Having grey or unmanageable hair is better than having no hair. Make no mistake – hair is VERY important to women (and guys too, though it’s more acceptable, even sexy, for some to go bald.)

And if a couple of empty patches of keratin can plague me so badly, I cannot imagine how much more those suffering from hair loss, especially women undergoing medical treatment, are affected by the emotional trauma and physical “disfigurement”.

A friend recently admitted how she never noticed how her head was nicely rounded until she lost all her hair. That in itself, she said, was a blessing and how bathing now takes half the time it used to! She dons her headscarves so fashionably and proudly that one’s compelled to admire her inner resolve, rather than feel sorry for her. I can’t help but feel deeply humbled by her strength and by many others in her shoes.

Currently, I still trying to muster the courage to face up to the fact that my frizzy, balding mane is slowly going more than just 50 shades of grey.

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Feb
23
Happy
Fashion is a business. That’s even emphasised in London these days, where young designers rub shoulders with - and occasionally get squashed by - corporations pulling multi-billion pound punches. Fashion Inc. is all well and good. It pays the bills. But sometimes you wonder what you’re applauding: designers’ innovation, or their ability to harness said innovation for commercial means?

Look at Topshop Unique - the applause at their Sunday afternoon show dribbled to a stop, rather than climaxing with a designer bobbing a bow. Topshop’s design team is faceless; you applaud the brand, not the hand.


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Burberry have Christopher Bailey, but there’s still the sense of anonymous might to the company. A panicked rush across Central London characterises the Burberry show, where a prompt start - to ensure optimum live stream viewers - leaves many press and buyers standing outside. That’s because this show isn’t for them - it’s for the mass audience, logging on to see a show and maybe to buy a wallet or scarf. The clothes are almost incidental to the whole majesty of the staging, the monumental pull of the event. This time, they were fine - hippy, drippy, Bloomsbury, soupy shapes and soupy shades of Campbell’s tomato and pea-green.

“We’ve named the collection "Patchwork, Pattern & Prints”,” said Christopher Bailey pre-show - not in person, but via an automated email pinged out ten minutes before the curtain went up. And it was, rich and multi-layered, albeit layered on the body rather than through depth of message. It got the job done.

Christopher Kane is part of big fashion machine too - the conglomerate Kering - but, at his best, a sense of emotion vibrates through his clothes. This show wasn’t his best: there were too many ideas fighting for attention, but too many ideas is far better than too few, and the whole seemed heartfelt.

Seduction was Kane’s kick, most graphically expressed in an orgy of Swiss lace specially woven from to designs derived from life drawing classes. Graphic was the word: one model strode out with a penis outlined on her right hip, and your eyebrows involuntarily jerked upwards. Those, however, felt like an idea unresolved, the cut-out shapes of limbs flailing around the models’ bodies messily.

There were, thankfully, subtler seduction tactics than those dirty doodles. As is so often the case with Kane, he delved into the naffer nadirs of taste. He goes deep. Lurex or slimily tactile two-tone velvet butted against lettuce-leaf frills of chiffon, recalling the naughty nighties usually limited to suburban wife-swapping parties, while disco-bright shades of bitchy scarlet and eyeshadow blue were reminiscent eighties disco dollies on the lash, looking for Mr Right. Exploring and exploding theses ideas, juxtaposing femme fatale with coy coquette, Kane was playing with stereotypes about love, and lust, and desire.

Imbuing the previously undesirable with a punch of longing is a strange skill of Kane\'s. That’s why he’s got a shop, filled with handbags (next seasons will be metallics in those eighties shades) and oddly attractive dresses. Nevertheless, we applaud not that, but his creativity, his push to challenge both himself and us.

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Feb
13
Happy
In traditional terms, the meaning of spring suggests a time of rejuvenation and reinvention. While the sighting of daffodils and newborn lambs may be few and far between thanks to the chilly climate, it’s not too early for a new season revamp starting with fragrance

No sooner than the Christmas decorations have come down, brands begin releasing their perfume offerings for spring. Just like not many shoppers would expect their woollen jumpers and winter boots to be suitable for spring, fragrances require some adjustment for the season.


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Florals in spring aren’t exactly innovative but in a blossom-heavy season it’s a timeless reference point for perfumers. Dolce & Gabbana’s new scent Floral Drops, which is out next month, is a flower lover’s dream, with white blooms Amaryllis, Daffodil and Water Lily at its heart. Burberry has also reinvented its Brit Rhythm fragrance; Floral contains the edition of jasmine, lotus blossom and lilac.

Still on the flowery theme, roses have enjoyed a period of reinvention over the past few years, shedding their old-fashioned connotations for a far trendier outlook. Jo Malone, whose Red Roses fragrance is now an iconic scent, has used the flower again in its new Limited Edition inspired by the history of Great Britain; Tudor Rose & Amber is a rich new scent in the collection.

A lighter take on the bloom is launching from Aerin; Rose de Grasse, which features a blend of three rose ingredients – Centifolia, Otto Bulgarian and Absolute combined with a watery accord for a fresher, modern scent. Similarly, Eau Plurielle from Diptyque uses rose as a base and introduces a fresher note with the addition of ivy.

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Feb
11
Happy
Our new favourite fashion store, Luisa Via Roma invited us to Florence last month to celebrate 10 Years Of \'Firenze4Ever\', we obliged and even ended up shooting a mini fashion story with them. Just how we roll people!

\'Firenze4Ever\' is a huge event they put on twice a year to celebrate everything fabulous about the new season.


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The chance to see all the new spring summer collections, party with Clean Bandit and the Italian fash-pack plus enjoy the beautiful surroundings of Florence, we didn\'t have to be asked twice, lets just put it that way!

For more than 80 years the iconic Italian store has stocked luxury designers like Lanvin and Valentino alongside new up and coming brands that you didn’t even know existed. The highly edited collection in store is enough to send you into overdrive of wanting.it.all. Hello AMEX.

But fear not you don\'t have to fly all the way to Italy to shop the latest must-haves, with our \'Style Lab\' fashion shoot in collaboration with Luisa Via Roma, our Fashion Editor Lucia Debieux chose her favourite pieces of the new Summer collections. Lucia tells us \'\'I was really feeling the \'Warrior Woman\' trend that is coming through for S/S15 and loved the idea of shooting white with touches of khaki. The trend really lends itself to partying the night away so we decided to shoot on the incredible rooftops of Florence as our backdrop. Choosing only 3 looks was hard, there was so much in Luisa Via Roma, I could have been there all day. Easily my new favourite shopping destination.\'\'

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Feb
9
Happy
The 2015 awards season has proved the unlikely feat that the words \'high neckline\' and \'red carpet\' can be heard in the same sentence. Shock horror; Rita Ora wore polo neck Prada at the Grammys! The Grammys!

Making the usual sea of slashed, cut-out and plunging necklines look old hat, this year\'s best actress academy nominees have graced the spotlight in a catalogue of demure dresses boasting long-sleeves as well as neck warming accents.


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Felicity Jones cut a positively-regal figure in Dior at the Golden Globes; Rosamund Pike found much to like in Louis Vuitton\'s ribbon embellished necklines and the chainmail neck on Julianne Moore\'s Saint Laurent mini stamped the 54-year-old a winner in the wardrobe stakes as she does the rounds collecting her best actress accolades.

One wouldn\'t usually associate high necklines with spring/summer collections, but a handful of influential designers have included them at the core of their offerings. Louis Vuitton and Prada both plumped for textured neck finishes, while Carven zipped the brand\'s sporty dresses right up to the throat. So, luckily for the actresses currently dressing for the red carpet, giving a nod to the new season also means a toasty d�colletage.

The recent pre-fall 2015 presentations have established the fact that high-necks are going nowhere in 2015. No longer just a layering feature under our tunics and pinafores, the polo neck is set to take centre stage at Mary Katrantzou, Marni, Chanel and Giambattista Valli this autumn.

Where the spring/summer 2015 Haute Couture shows were concerned, designers were preoccupied with structured ruffles creeping up the nape of necks. John Galliano\'s \'Artisanal\' collection for Maison Margiela nodded to the Nehru style of collars sewn onto eastern jackets and even Donatella Versace managed a nod to the burgeoning trend in her risqu� collection.

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Here\'s how to layer in summerWith the weather in the city blowing hot and cold every day, summer dressing becomes a tricky rope to walk on. Use smart layering to look fashionable yet keep calm and cool in this unpredictable seasonCotton sari wrapNatural fabrics like cotton, linen and...
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Humbled by no hairIt takes a lot more guts to have no hair and still stand proud, than to carry off some new trendy hairstyle.TRENDS for Spring/Summer 2015 is all about going nude. On the face, that is.That’s a pretty brave look to carry, even if it’s with the paradoxi...
London Fashion Week: Clothes - and shows - for the masses from Topshop Unique, Burberry and Christopher KaneFashion is a business. That’s even emphasised in London these days, where young designers rub shoulders with - and occasionally get squashed by - corporations pulling multi-billion pound punches. Fashion Inc. is all well and good. It pays the bills. But...
Smells like Spring: New fragrances for 2015In traditional terms, the meaning of spring suggests a time of rejuvenation and reinvention. While the sighting of daffodils and newborn lambs may be few and far between thanks to the chilly climate, it’s not too early for a new season revamp starting w...
How Our Fashion Editor Got Her Shopping Fix In FlorenceOur new favourite fashion store, Luisa Via Roma invited us to Florence last month to celebrate 10 Years Of \'Firenze4Ever\', we obliged and even ended up shooting a mini fashion story with them. Just how we roll people!\'Firenze4Ever\' is a huge event the...
Trending: high-neck dressesThe 2015 awards season has proved the unlikely feat that the words \'high neckline\' and \'red carpet\' can be heard in the same sentence. Shock horror; Rita Ora wore polo neck Prada at the Grammys! The Grammys!Making the usual sea of slashed, cut-out and...

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